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Saturday, June 16, 2012

Action Chess Progress: Triumph!

It is done! All the pieces work. They print well, they go together well, they come apart well, and they look great! Finally I have the chess set I've wanted since I was a child.

I'm packaging up the files for publishing on thingiverse, but I wanted my loyal readers here to be the first to know that the Action Chess set is out of the testing phase.

Eventually I'm going to need to get a better name than "Action Chess". Chessatron, Robocheck, Hyper Chess? Help me out here guys.

EDIT: This is the last post I will be labeling as "first-steps": the posts to detail the growth from new Replicator owner to confident 3D printer. I feel this print represents the culmination of why I got a 3D printer, which is a statement that can be taken at least two ways and be true both times. But while this is the end of that story the adventure continues still...


  1. G'day Joe

    I wasn't sure where to post this so I figured this section was as good as any...

    I've been researching options in desktop 3D Printers, the replicator series being one of the leading contenders and coming across your site has given me great confidence that I am on the right track.

    But I do have a question which I hope you can answer.

    When searching for images of prints made with various 2D printers, including the Replicators, often the surfaces show quite heavy layers.

    But looking at your prints, the surfaces seem really smooth in comparision.

    So my question is; do you do any further finishing of your pieces or are they as off the printer?

    Your level of surface finish is what I am looking to achieve and really need to know if I can get this by using the Replicators.

    Thanks mate, sorry for the long winded post, I hope you can enlighten me a little.



  2. I don't regularly do any finishing of my printed things aside from rubbing them with my fingers to knock off any loose threads or burrs, which is only an occasional occourance. I've found 150 micron layers are generally good enough to stand on their own even on very small parts that are all detail. Believe it or not there is a huge difference between 0.27mm layer heights and 0.15mm that I do regularly now.

    1. G'day Joe

      Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
      One other question I have, and I hope you don't mind me asking so much of you, but after reading through your site your opinion carries a lot of weight with me.

      So I'm wondering if you would know, or could guess what layer heights are shown in these images and if you think better layer heights can be achieved with the replicators?

      They are from the 2X promo shots.
      They seem like odd pictures to use, as the layer heights seem very coarse compared to the 'tractor' model they have used as promo for the Rep 2.

    2. Hah, I read that as "G. I. Joe" first time. Hah bias.

      What you're seeing in those prints is a very small object zoomed in on. In reality I'm guessing the tractor is a coarser resolution than those are, but because you're looking at them close up the layers become more apparent. Most of my prints look like that close up too... actually looking at the one I have here it doesn't look that bad.

      Generally if you want to hide those layers you have to take more time printing. So if you want something printed faster you'll go with the corser layers.

      You know, you're giving me the idea to show off the differences in layers in a future post, so watch for that... just as soon as I choose something to print. Any suggestions?

  3. G'day GI Joe ;)

    Not sure about those pieces, they don't look to be that small, I think perhaps they made those as a quick print.
    Your chess robot and zelda rings don't look that course.

    But yeah, if you do a post about layer thicknesses, having a side by side comparison of the same object printed in different resolutions(?) would be good.
    Something smallish with curves would be good, with a coin or something for a size gauge.

  4. Hey Joe
    I chased up an answer from the MB guys.
    They tell me those items were printed at 270 microns.

    Which got me thinking, if you do an article on z layer thicknesses, a comparison time for each layer resolution printed would be good to list as well.

    Sorry for the rambling.


  5. I had some time and printed off a piece at different resolutions. And yes, I kept track of the time. The results were interesting. I've taken some pictures and now I just need to do a write up so expect that tomorrow.

    ...ooh, I just realized I forgot the "scale" shot. I'll have to add that.


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