Fixing the Heated Build Platform Cable

When my heated build platform cable burned out my more DIY centric friends suggested I just cut the cable and solder directly to the connectors. Maybe one day, but for now I've got the new cable from makerbot support so I'm gonna go that route.

The PDF that makerbot sends with instructions to help you install your cable looks like this:

The HBP cable is the thick one coming out of the hole in the bottom plate on the other side of the Z­motor from the MightyBoard, and it's connected to the MightyBoard in two places.

[Photo: Cable emerging from hole on underside of The Replicator.] or [Photo: Underside of The Replicator, HBP cable highlighted somehow.] and/or [Photo: Closeup of front half of MightyBoard, all HBP wires highlighted somehow.]

The small HBP connector is plugged into the HBP Therm port, right by the ribbon cable from the LCD interface. Disconnect it.

[Photo: Hand disconnecting HBP cable from BP Therm port.]

Those bracket areas are not me paraphrasing out the pictures. That's what the document says. Makerbot: quick to market, slow to document.

Honestly, tho, it's not that difficult. Just need to be willing to flip the bot over.

When you remove the old cable there is no need to pry the black plastic connector holders out of the way. First of all, they're not all one solid piece like I thought they were. Secondly, they're not locking, just a little support. If you do try to pry them you're likely to snap the left two of them off like I did. So don't do that.

Flip the bot up and remove the one screw holding the electronics cover, then remove the electronics cover. As always don't lose that little square nut, it's not glued in there. Unless you've glued yours in there. I should glue mine in there.

There's the old burnt cable pulled through. It attaches to the motherboard in two places. Just follow it back to it's source.

You're going to need a small screwdriver to remove the heat terminal leads. Unscrewing these all the way makes reinsertion easy. I also took this picture so I'd get the black and red cables in the right place when I put everything back together.

That's it. Take it apart, put it back together with the new cable, and I'm back to printing ABS. Easy. Which is good because I've got a ton of chess sets to finish and some other store items to restock.